Isabella Rossellini has a strong connection with the history of Florentine fashion house Emilio Pucci.
She interpreted, in a photo shoot in 1990, the iconic Vivara print created in 1965 by Pucci and named after the island in the Gulf of Naples that inspired it. The opening of his first boutique in Capri in 1950 was already a declaration of love for the renowned archipelago overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, but it was precisely that crescent of land that captured his heart, discovering it from above while piloting his torpedo bomber during the Second World War flying over the Phlegraean islands.
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At the end of the conflict, he tried to reproduce that aerial view of the island of Vivara by printing it on fabrics. Those prints immediately became the trademark of the Pucci style in the world, thanks to the numerous celebrities of the time who stopped by his boutique in Capri. From Marilyn Monroe to Jacqueline Kennedy, Vivara conquered the summer styles of stars.
And it is precisely that print that Isabella Rossellini wore to close the LVMH brand’s fashion show in the National Roman Museum of Palazzo Altemps in Rome on April 4. The historic residence a few steps from Piazza Navona hosted the second show of the artistic director Camille Miceli, entitled ‘Very Vivara’, as a tribute to the heritage bequeathed by Emilio Pucci, designer, Marchese of Barsento and a highly decorated aviator with three silver medals to military valor.
“I’m very happy to be here,” Rosellini told THR Roma at the show. “I took those photos for Emilio Pucci for the cover of Vogue 34 years ago. The photographer was Steven Meisel. This evening, I returned to the catwalk with the same motif designed then by the great stylist because these are things that are timeless. When I was a child, women who wanted to assert their modernity wore Pucci. My mother loved him very much. She was happy when she wore his creations. Not only were they refined garments but also comfortable. You could wear them from morning to night and on any occasion. It was an enormous freedom.”
Top model Christy Turlington opened the show, dressed in a black caftan decorated with a target print on the neck, a motif that alternates with a swan, key, marble and fish prints that cover the bomber jackets, scarf dresses and skirts, plus asymmetrical tops and palazzo trousers. Studded leather fringes and chain details provide rock accents. Models Eva Herzigova, Angelina Kendall and Mariacarla Boscano continued the parade. Numerous Italian movie stars sat in the front row: Claudia Gerini, Anna Valle, Alessandra Mastronardi, Riccardo Scamarcio, Emma Marrone and the supermodel Marpessa.
Pucci’s historic prints triumphantly returned in this new collection created by Camille Miceli, which speaks to pride, modernity and sensuality. From an urban chic style to looks for the day and summer nights, the classic codes are rethought in order to emphasize the creative dynamism of the founder of the brand in an event that saw fashion and art celebrated in the Italian capital. (Beyoncé, Naomi Campbell and Margot Robbie are among the stars who have all recently worn Pucci.)
Below, Miceli opened up to THR Roma about her feelings about Rome and where her love of fashion comes from.
Why did you choose Rome?
For something a little personal, my father was from Rome, I have been going there since I was a child. Then because it is wonderful and also because we have a beautiful shop in Piazza di Spagna, which is not bad. Rome is the city to escape from stress, boredom and Parisian melancholy.
What do you like about this city?
The joy of life, the carefreeness, the people here don’t worry, it seems that everything always goes well, that you don’t have to stress about many things. The beauty, of course, a city that you discover every time, like Palazzo Altemps. I had never been there, and I discovered it thanks to a very dear Roman friend of mine, Filippo Del Drago, who told me to go and see this wonderful palace that not even the people of Rome know well.
Why Isabella Rossellini?
Because it all started from that photo shoot where Isabella Rossellini was dressed in vivara prints. She is a wonderful actress and was a model who has already beautifully interpreted the Pucci style in the world.
How did you recreate the prints?
The print is the same. I haven’t changed anything. Pucci was the genius of printing. Emilio’s original design is so beautiful that we left it as he conceived and created it. In the collection there is a print called Swan, in which there are two swans, and there is a sun underneath, for example, we just separated it. We made a skirt with the sun and the jacket on top with the swans placed on a black background.
How much Italian is there in your creation?
It’s difficult to explain. Maybe my sense of color comes from the Italian side because Italy is colorful. In my opinion, it is more colorful than France.
To whom do you owe your passion for fashion?
To my family. I had a photographer dad. Just imagine that in the first days I arrived at Pucci I saw a collection of old Vogues, and there was a French Vogue from 1972 with Marilyn Monroe on the cover. I flip through it and see a photo of Gucci luggage signed by Stefano Miceli, my father. Then also from my mother who was a fashion editor. She worked for some Italian newspapers. Finally, I had the chance to have Azzedine Alaïa as a mentor, it was an internship, my first work experience. It was very special.
You have held various roles in different areas of fashion. How much did this special background help you?
I did everything, from communication to casting right at the time of the supermodels when I met Christy, Eva Herzigova and all the others. Then, thanks to Marc Jacobs, I started designing jewelry and more, until I got here. It’s like having a 3D dimension of things. Communication today is so important in our industry.
What celebrity have you dressed that has given you the most satisfaction?
Without a shadow of a doubt: Beyoncé.
